"That's Where I'm From!!"

“That’s Where I’m From!!”
Dunedin, New Zealand

Dunedin, New Zealand

After a couple of weeks of bumbling through small towns in the south it was nice to arrive on the buzzing and busy Dunedin. The drive up and over the small mountain that seems to protect Dunedin from the rest of the South was quite something but Blondini smashed it like a trooper.

We decided not to stay in Dunedin at first and instead headed straight out on the Otago Peninsular to Portobello to stay the night, but with no time to waste we made our way straight to the Royal Albatross Centre at the end of the Peninsular. This was something of a wild drive as a bit like the Coromandel the roads are narrow and windy with just open ocean on one side and we were faced with bus after bus driving well over the middle line ferrying cruise ship passengers to and from the Albatross Centre. We had a bit of a wait for our time slot at the centre but luckily there were some pretty cool seals lazing around on the rocks nearby ready to be papped.

Eventually it was our turn to be lead up to the Albatross colony one of the few mainland colonies that are accessible. This colony was actually first established by ornithologist Dr Lance Richdale who first discovered eggs being laid on Taiaroa Head in 1919, but no chicks hatched until 1938. Since this first chick the eggs at Taiaroa head have been extensively managed by the rangers and it is now a successful breading ground.

When we visited the chicks had just hatched in the last 2 weeks and from the viewing platform we were able to see at least 4 adult albatross sitting on their babies. One was kind enough to get up and stretch its wings to cool the baby down giving us some perfect viewing opportunities. The guide gave us lots of information about the breeding pairs, how usually it is the same mothers who return every year or every other year and the birds are tagged so they know who is returning. I asked the guide if any new birds turn up and she told us that yes, they often get new females from the Chatham Islands. Out of nowhere Tim suddenly perked up and at the top of his voice declared ‘That is where I’m from’. My jaw dropped, but I did manage to clarify to him that she said Chatham islands not Channel Islands. I was mortally embarrassed for Tim, he however was completely unaware of what a complete fool he had made of himself until I took it upon myself to tease him relentlessly for the next…. Well actually I still remind him of it regularly, ha ha.

After watching the nesting birds we moved on another random but quite interesting feature of Tairoa Head A visit to the last remaining fully intact Armstrong disappearing gun, which was placed on the head in 1886 following fears that NZ was going to be attacked by the Russians.

After an amazing treat of a fish and chip dinner in the local pub (as there was a distinct lack of anywhere to buy food on the peninsular) we set off for an early morning boat ride in search of flying albatross. Sadly it was such a calm and wind free day the birds were all sat on the cliffs refusing to move but thankfully the Stewart Island Shags and seals were out in force and put on a good show for us.

Back in the hustle and bustle of the city we booked ourself on another of New Zealands epic journeys, a trip on the Taireri Gorge Railway, we are clearly a pair of geeks as we were the youngstest on this train full of retired cruise ship passengers, but we didn’t care the views were awesome. This train line was established in 1979 and ever since has basically run from Dunedin to Middlemarch and back again as a tourist trip. At 60km this is NZ’s longest tourist railway line. It is dotted with viaducts, tunnels and even crosses the Southern hemispheres largest wrought iron structure.

Having geeked ourselves out on the railway it was time for something much more appropriate, the Dunedin Cadbury’s Factory Tour. Sadly no cameras were allowed past the entrance where we were fitted with rather fetching hairnets and handed a plastic bag to fill with chocolate along the way. It was actually pretty interesting to see all the different Cadbury’s products that they make here that don’t exist in England, like marshmallow filled chocolate fish and orange flavoured Jaffa balls?! They were certainly not mean with the chocolate and it seemed that the more you ate the more they replaced it so we came out full of chocolate and with a rather delightful bag full of treats to keep us going. As if that wasn’t enough the gift shop was also selling chocolate at almost half the supermarket prices to it was only right to stock up on crème eggs!

We were pretty gutted to realise after we left Dunedin that we had forgotten to go and see the steepest street in the world. Oh well best go back and maybe we can redo the Cadbury’s tour.

Next we were headed to the Catlins, a rugged and wildlife filled section of undeveloped coast, but of course we can’t just drive straight there, no we are going on a 200km round trip diversion to Gore to get a Selfe with the Big Trout and some Big Clydesdale horses in Clinton.